Pandora with Retooled Blacks
Polycarbonate vs Aluminum Case Material
Polycarbonate is a lightweight, yet heavy duty plastic. In Pandora, it allows the board to have some degree of flex under pressure, while maintaining a lower overall weight than its aluminum counterpart. The sound is also more deep, thocky, and less pingy than aluminum. Its semi-trasnparent properties allow RGB underglow to diffuse through the body, and you can see the boards internals through it. For a satisfying sound and feel, I would recommend polycarbonate.
Half Switch Plates and Flex
Flex is a term we use to describe the physical flexing of a keyboard when under typing pressure. Some people enjoy it when their builds flex, and some don't. Its all personal preference. For gaming I would suggest non flex builds, and for prolonged typing sessions I would suggest flex builds.
Switch Plate Options
Aluminum is your standard, underrated, look good feel good plate material. It's sturdy yet flexible, and sounds great.
The interior of the Pandora case will not be finished off as meticulously as the outside. The manufacturer will hand polish the most visible sections, which means they will prioritize the exterior. I have not seen it in my prototypes, but things to expect in the insides can be anodization flaws, machining marks, unpolished sections and general visual blemishes
It is impossible for me to test every pcb to the extent which would be needed to find every possible flaw. As such, some keyboard pcbs may arrive faulty to the end customers. This is because electronic components can simply fail or short, be soldered on faulty from the pcb manufacturer, or rub off/break during the various shipping trips. Even if I did test everything, it can simply break during final transit, or even during assembly by you. The damage can be as little as a switch diode not working, go up to an rgb component being dead, or be as bad as the entire pcb being dead on arrival. In any case, contact me if one of these issues occur, and I will look into replacements on a case-by-case basis. The comment is true for the USB Hub, Rotary Encoder and USB-C daughter-board as well.
In my 3 prototype Pandoras, out of the 8 screw holes in the case, the 2 center top ones (next to the USB-C connector) are very tight. I haven't quite understood why yet, but have been looking into it as best as I can.
Some rgb underglow leaks out of the case. The first area is best seen from the left and right sides, where the bottom case piece meets the middle case piece. This is because the case parts are not perfectly flat and metals have some minuscule gap. The next area is from the plate, generally where the stabilizer cutouts are. This is just because light travels and any gaps expose rgb. If you use translucent switches, it will leak upwards through the switches as well.
The brass being offered in this group buy will be finished in two separate configurations. The first is polished, and the second is finely blasted. In both cases, the brass will be have a mild surface treatment to prevent tarnish. However, the manufacturer has told me that it will still tarnish over time, or if handled profusely. The polished brass is not so bright, and a super fingerprint magnet. The best way to re-polish it is with a compound such as Wright's Brass Polish.
This buy allows you to go all out super-flex if you purchase a meme configuration like a pom half plate, paired with the pcb cutouts. Even if I hollowed out the case a ton, you can still press all the way down and possibly short out the pcb. So please be aware of this and if it actually becomes an issue, you can lay down the included case foam to fix the issue.
Polycarbonate is a brittle plastic and can crack under pressure. Also, the screw holes can be stripped if you over tighten them. Please go slow and easy.
1. Some (not all) of my prototype builds do not sleep the RGB underglow when the computer shuts down, even though I have the appropriate code written in the config.h file for Pandoras QMK build.
2. The second issue is that a new layout will not work sometimes when flashing my pcb with QMK Toolbox. I have found that I need to first use the Clear Eeprom function while it is in reset mode, and then flash it. If the pcb is erased like that first, the new firmware works flawlessly.
My 2015 15" Mac fails to recognize Pandora or the USB HUB. This can be due to MacOS not recognizing the USB Hub chip. If it doesn't work with your Mac, the only solution is to bypass the USB HUB by connecting the USB Daughterboard directly to the keyboard PCB. It will work without the USB HUB.
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10u Spacebars are made through Signature Plastics in DCS profile. The sound of 10u spacebars is not as thocky as you might imagine. It is light and spread out since DCS bars are thin. The feel is also mushy as the bar flexes considerably. They might come with slight imperfections and warping. I try to visually inspect each spacebar before sending it out, but these things can happen. The wires might also have slight imperfections as they were bent by hand.
I am not liable for any damages caused by my product, or any add ons included with my product.