GB BUILD ISSUES found
1. The free RGB diffusers will not fit the case due to a manufacturing error. Their alignment grooves need to be enlarged to fit correctly.
2. The long M3 gold screws will only fit if you use the RGB diffusers, due to the added thickness of the case and the screw lengths.
3. Durock V2 stabs did not fit on the PCB near the Enter and R-Shift area. The housings hit each other.
please note When assembling
Do not overtighten or mishandle Polycarbonate components as they will easily break.
Have your pcb be on a static free surface and free of metallic components which can cause it to short.
Do not force JST cables into their ports as the port can snap off.
If planning on using a caps lock led, please purchase one like this - LINK
Tools needed / suggested
Phillips 0 bit- 4 USB-C daughterboard screws / 3 USB-Hub screws / 2 Badge screws
Hex 2. bit - 8 Case screws / 2 Encoder screws / 2 Weight screws
Phillips 2 bit - 8 Case screws
Soldering Iron and Solder - Solder pcbs
Flangless 3mm through hole LED's - Caps lock and top right corner
Video Build Guide
Written Build Guide
1. unpack the black goodie bags
Please unpack everything and find the following components in their respective black bags
-Hardware bag (gaskets, cables, bumpons, secondary PCB's)
-Top left corner badge
-Rotary encoder with knob attached
screw bag guide
7 Gold Flathead M2 Phillips (4 daughterboard, USB Hub)
2 Gold Countersunk M3 Hex (Replacements for the included weight screws)
2 Silver Roundhead Head M3 Hex (Encoder)
2 Silver Flathead M3 Phillips (Badge)
8 Gold Roundhead M3 Hex (Case)
2. unpack your pcb's and plates and flash the pcb
1. In your PEARL BOARDS translucent sleeves, please take out all your components.
2. Open your sealed PCB up and connect a red JST cable to the back port that says "USB".
3. Connect the black USB-C daughterboard to the other end of the JST cable.
4. Connect the USB-C daughterboard to your included cable and connect the cable to your computer.
5. Following the instructions here flash your PCB accordingly.
3. test all your pcbs
1. Open a text editor or open VIA from the previous step.
2. Using tweezers, bridge every switch and see that it types or registers the appropriate key press.
3. If a key does not type or register, it may be an indication that a diode is bad or the PCB has been damaged in some way.
4. If this test is done POST-SOLDERING or POST-ASSEMBLING with a hotswap pcb, it may be an indication of an unsoldered pin or a bent pin (hotswap)
4. Disassemble the case
1. Unscrew the 8 Silver M3 case screws and pull apart the bottom, mid and top case parts.
2. Unscrew the 2 Hex M3 weight screws and pull apart the bottom and weight parts. The 2 silver weight screws will be replaced with 2 Gold screws included in your screw bag, so you can set them aside permanently.
5. Add the secondary pcbs to the bottom case
1. Screw in the encoder on the bottom right with 2 Silver Roundhead Hex M3 screws, and connect a red JST cable to it.
2. Unplug the USB-C daughterboard from the pcb, and screw it in the center with 4 Gold Flathead Phillips M2 screws.
3. Screw in the USB-Hub on the left with 3 Gold Flathead Phillips M2 screws.
4. Connect a red JST cable from the USB-C daughterboard to the USB-Hub using the port labeled "USB".
5. Connect the second red JST cable to the USB-Hub port labeled "PCB" and leave the other end unconnected.
6. Add gaskets and the badge to the case
1. Using a tweezer or clips, carefully peel a gasket off the included strip.
2. Place 6 gaskets on the top part of the mid piece in the grooves.
3. Place 6 gaskets on the underside of the top case part in the grooves.
4. Once done, place the mid piece on top of the bottom piece, making sure it aligns correctly.
5. Grab the top case piece and screw in the corner badge using 2 Silver Flathead M3 screws. Set it aside once done.
7. Add stabilizers to your pcb before assembling the plate and switches
There are 5 possible areas where a stabilizer may be used.
-The areas are left shift, right shift, backspace, enter / iso enter, and spacebar.
-The spacebar area can be either a 6.25U, 7U or 10U stabilizer, and the rest are 2U stabs.
TIP: It is very strongly suggested that you lubricate the stabilizers beforehand.
TIP: Pop in a switch and add a keycap to it and try tapping it. If it rattles hard, add more lubrication.
8. assemble the pcb and plate
1. Begin by inserting switches into the plate, and having the pcb be underneath it.
2. The switch should have 2 little nubs that insert into the pcb, as well as 2 metal pins that insert into the pcb.
3. If the pcb is hotswap, make sure the metal pins do not bend while being inserted.
4. If the pcb is solder, make sure you solder the two pins once inserted.
TIP: Soldering can be done once every switch is inserted.
TIP: Make sure every switch is pushed all the way down before soldering.
9. retest the pcb like in step 3
If a key that did register before doesn't register now, make sure you have not bent a pin, missed soldering a pin, or are using a faulty switch.
10. Assemble the case and pcb/plate
1. Grab your bottom/mid case piece, and If using case foam, add it on top of the weight at this moment.
2. Carefully bring the pcb/plate close to the bottom/mid case piece, and connect the 2 JST cables to the PCB.
3. On the right side of the case, the encoder will connect to the underside of the main pcb port labeled "ENCODER" with the red JST cable.
4. On the left side of the case, the USB-Hub will connect to the underside of the main pcb port labeled "USB" with the red JST cable.
5. Align the plate as best as you can on top of the mid piece gaskets, and using the top case piece, compress the plate down now.
6. Flip the Pandora around carefully, and screw it in using the 8 Silver Phillips M3 screws.
7. Add the 4 clear feet bumpons to the underside of the bottom case.
Add your keycaps to the switches. Some may rub against the Pandora case walls when being pressed. If this is the case, please loosen the 8 Silver Phillips M3 case screws and try to align the plate better.
Boot up VIA from step 3 and customize your Pandora however you want!
1. If your PCB doesn't register, use different cables or ports , or check if your JST cables are plugged in to the correct ports.
2. If your secondary PCB's don't correctly align with the screw holes, file down their ends a tiny bit until they do.
3. If your modifiers or switches are sitting sideways, make sure your switch is pushed down all the way and a pin isn't bent.
4. If your encoder knob is loose or has fallen off, push it in hard as its press fitted. If its still loose, you can glue it on.